New Balance 204L Sizing: Do They Fit True To Size?

The sneaker world is currently obsessed with low profile silhouettes, and New Balance, always ahead of the curve, has thrown its hat into the ring with the 204L. This shoe is generating considerable buzz and is quickly establishing itself as the brand's next essential style. Marrying a minimalist, 70s inspired runner shape with early 2000s panelling, the 204L offers a welcome contrast to the chunky 'dad shoe' trend that has dominated for years. If you're looking to jump on the bandwagon, here is everything you need to know about getting the right size, comfort, and look.

For most wearers, the New Balance 204L fits true to size (TTS). The shoe is designed with a slim structure, taking cues from vintage running models. However, if your feet are wider than average; or if you simply prefer a more relaxed fit with extra toe room; you should go up half a size. Going true to size will give you a very snug fit, which might end up hurting your toe if worn for extended time. So increasing the size is a common solution. If you opt for a mesh version, bear in mind that these models tend to fit marginally smaller than the full suede editions, which may make sizing up a safer bet.

Compared to other trainers in the New Balance catalogue; especially those featuring advanced cushioning like ENCAP or ABZORB; the 204L offers a medium to firm level of comfort. The midsole is constructed solely from EVA foam, which keeps the shoe lightweight and affordable but lacks the pillowy response you might expect from an expensive lifestyle runner. The overall feel is low to the ground, which the video reviewer described as "really weird" when first worn. While they are certainly not uncomfortable for daily wear, they are not engineered for long distance walking or running. If you value a stable, firm ground feel over plush bounce, you will get on well with the 204L.

Most of the colourways of the 204L feature premium suede uppers. Just like any other quality suede or leather trainer, with consistent wear, the upper will naturally mould to the shape of your foot, relieving any initial tightness you may feel, particularly across the width. Given the thin sole and soft upper, the break in period for the 204L is minimal, meaning they should feel comfortable almost straight out of the box. The mesh version like the New Balance 204L Black Timberwolf however, won't stretch or mould that much.

The slim, low profile silhouette of the 204L makes it incredibly versatile, working with a variety of aesthetics:

While there are many different colours in this silhouette perfect for the winter weather, we believe the Mushroom/Arid Stone colourway is one to watch out for. Releasing on 12th December, the New Balance 204L "Arid Stone" steps into the spotlight with a muted palette and a shape built for now. This mushroom toned take on the emerging 204L silhouette leans into the current love for low profile runners with a touch of outdoor utility. Embroidered branding and the signature EVA foam midsole keep things grounded in New Balance’s comfort first DNA, and the rugged outsole adds a subtle nod to archival trail shoes without going full tech.