How the Clarks Wallabee Became a Streetwear Icon

The Clarks Originals Wallabee is as quintessentially British as a cup of tea and a digestive biscuit. First unveiled all the way back in the late ‘60s, its iconic design builds on top of a type of German moccasin called the Grashopper. While its old school design may look like something your grandad would wear, its history is steeped in influences from countless sub-cultures, coming together to create a streetwear icon that has truly stood the test of time.

Picture this: It’s 1967 and the Wallabee (or Wallee, as it has been affectionately nicknamed) has just been unveiled at Clarks’ Somerset HQ - a space that they’ve been at for almost two whole centuries. While the shoe was marketed towards older English folk who just wanted something smart and comfortable at the same time, on the other side of the planet, the silhouette rocketed in popularity. If you thought the Nike Dunk is hyped now, you’ve obviously never experienced how insanely sought-after the Wallabee was in Jamaica.

To put this into perspective, Jamaican “Rude Boys” had a thing for the Clarks Desert Trek which launched all the way back in the ’50s. They were so in-love with it that it was quickly associated with criminal activity, so if cops saw anyone rocking up in a pair of these boots they automatically targeted them as breakers of the law. In fact, the model even gained the nickname “The Bankrobber” which clearly doesn’t give off an innocent vibe. With that said, when the Wallee was introduced some 17 years later, they were pretty much immediately adopted by Rude Boys up and down the Caribbean country.

Throughout the ‘60s and ‘70s, Jamaica was at the forefront of the music industry and played a huge role in creating modern hip-hop. Reggae was developed around this time and quickly infiltrated the ears and bodies of countless Jamaicans. Getting its roots from early Ska and Rocksteady, people loved the “authenticity” of the beat and how the songs talked about the ebbs and flows of life.

Bob Marley became a true icon in this genre and his lyrics about love and beauty slowly but surely made their way towards North America, bringing with it the rasta style that made the music so unquestionably cool. Before we knew it, the Wallabee was stepping off a plane and onto the streets of New York City.

When you ask any hip-hop fan who they think of when they think of the Wallabees, I can guarantee that 95% of people will mention Wu-Tang Clan. They publicly announced their love for the Clarks shoe to the point that the model even gained the nickname “Wu Shoe”. The late, great MF Doom was also a huge ambassador for the modern moccasin, in fact, in 2014 he collaborated with the British footwear brand on a pair that was debossed with his signature metal mask at the heel. Other massive fans include Drake and Kanye West, the latter of whom was often spotted rocking a pair of dark grey ones before his partnerships with adidas and Nike.

The Wallee hopped on a flight and travelled to Japan where it became enormously popular among famous shopping districts like Harajuku and Shibuya. The same way we see Milan and Paris as the fashion capitals of the world, fashionistas in Japan think that London is the epitome of style. As a Brit myself, I find this opinion a little questionable, but over in Tokyo they have something called the “ABC Of British Style”. “A” stands for Aquascutum, “B” for Burberry, and “C” for, you guessed it, Clarks.

“I knew about Clarks – only because of Clarks Originals – from when I was working in fashion and was a kid in the ‘80s.” explained Atsushi Hasegawa, Creative Concept Manager at Clarks. “They had Clarks Originals in very good shops… I’ve grown up with Clarks Originals – Desert Boots, Desert Trek, the Wallabee, Natalie. I absorbed many famous shoes when I was young and I definitely liked Clarks Originals with their authentic, simple designs.”

At around the same time, the Wallabee returned to its roots, becoming uncontrollably popular here in the UK thanks to the rise of acid house and Britpop. In an interview with Mixmag, Steven Anderson, Co-Founder of Oi Polloi, stated, “ I remember when I first saw them I just thought they were mad, they looked like your grandma’s old comfort shoe. I did like them, though, and back then, you couldn’t wear trainers in clubs so they were one of the only cool shoes you could wear. Saying that, they weren’t practical with all the filth on the floor at The Haçienda and some of the afterparties.” The shoe was spotted on the feet of members of Blur and Oasis, and they are famously worn by The Verve’s Richard Ashcroft on the cover of 1997’s “Urban Hymns”.

As with strawberries and cream, music and streetwear work hand-in-hand. Going as far back as the early 2000s, collaborations between the Clarks Wallabee and streetwear labels were being announced pretty much every month. From OGs like David Z in 2008 to brands such as BAPE, Carhartt WIP, END., Ronnie Fieg, and Stüssy, you can’t talk about Wallee collabs without mentioning those from Supreme.

2012 marked the very first time that the NYC-based imprint dropped a Wallabee collection as part of its Fall/Winter range. Taking on the boot variant, the only Supreme logo that could be found across the entire pair was on the leather insole within. Otherwise it pretty much looked like Clarks’ general release offerings.

This didn’t stop Supreme though. In fact, even to this day when they take on this silhouette they never once paste their logo across it. The shoe speaks for itself and it doesn’t need to be bastardised with an abundance of needless branding. One of the most iconic pieces of footwear in history, it really hits the sweet spot between smart and casual. Crafted from ultra premium materials and done up with a square toebox, these are the ultimate shoes to rock with both suits and cargo pants.

Basically speaking, if you’re not sure what shoes to wear with your fit, the Clarks Originals Wallabee is probably the answer.