There’s not many sneakers as legendary as the Nike Air Max 90 . After all, how many styles can you remember from the early 90s that are still popular today?! With its timeless appeal and iconic profile, this is undoubtedly one of the most influential Air Max trainers ever!
Designed by Tinker Hatfield, colourways such as the “Infrared” were an instant hit when they debuted back in 1990. Originally named the Air Max III, this was one of the earliest models to feature AIR in the heel. Sneakerheads were captivated from day one and that obsession only grew with the ever-expanding line-up of OG colourways, Quickstrike and collaborative releases.
To coincide with this year’s 30th anniversary, what better time to look back on the best Air Max 90s of all time? Keep scrolling to admire those and be sure to take a look at all of the latest colourways here .
KAWS x Nike Air Max 90 Brian Donnelly, the artist behind KAWS, linked up with Nike back in 2008 for a ultra-rare Air Max 90 collaboration. Just like his artwork, this collection brought a playful theme with the KAWS signature “XX” marks featuring in a vibrant volt colorway. Thanks to the lack of availability, these resell for £3,000 and upwards!
Nike Air Max 90 “Reversed Infrared” One of the few general releases to feature on this list, the “Reversed Infrared” launched unexpectedly in 2010. As the name would suggest, Nike simply reversed that classic colour scheme for a look that is far more stealthy than the OG. Not surprisingly, these were a big hit and retailers were quick to sellout here in the UK.
Nike Air Max 90 “Escape II” Several from the hugely popular “Escape” Pack deserve mention in this guide but arguably the most popular would be this toned down 2003 release. This same versatile theme was matched across an Air Max 93 and Huarache.
Dizzee Rascal x Nike Air Max 90 “Tongue N’ Cheek” Long before the Skepta x Nike Air Max models came another Grime link-up from Nike as they joined Dizzee Rascal to celebrate his fourth album release. Pulling inspiration from the LP cover, designed by Ben Drury, this pair features muted shades alongside hits of vibrant pink. Only a handful managed to secure this pair as it launched exclusively via Nike Store in London. All proceeds went to the Tower Hamlets Summer University which offers independent learning programs for youngsters in the UK.
DQM x Nike Air Max 90 “Bacon” Not many sneakers could pull off a bacon-inspired colourway. Let’s face it though, something about the light beige and vibrant red uppers just works on this Air Max 90. A 2004 collaboration from NYC sneaker boutique Dave’s Quality Meats, the shoe is a homage to the stores butcher shop-inspired interior. There’s now rumours of a 2020 release, the question is, will it be just as limited?!
Nike Air Max 90 Lunar SP “Moon Landing” This gravity-defying Air Max 90 launched in 2014 to mark the 45th anniversary of Neil Armstrong’s moon landing. A Lunarlon midsole is utilised in favour of an ultra lightweight fit that is as close to walking on the moon as you’re likely to get. An out of this world graphic covers the upper whilst a US flag gets stamped to the heel.
Nike Air Max 90 “Cork” Possibly the most unusual of materials was utilised for this 25th anniversary release. Nike switched out the conventional leather uppers in favour of lightweight cork. The hits of “Infrared” made these even more sought-after. Following the release there was some controversy, however, as some claim these made a squeaking sound when on foot.
Image via Sneaker Freaker
Nike Air Max 90 “Spruce Lime” Another seriously rare colourway, this citrus-inspired Air Max 90 first released in its original form back in 1991. The OG launch was limited to a few thousand so it came as good news when JD Sports re-released the style in 2008. Even still, the “Spruce Lime” is considered the one that got away for most collectors.
Atmos x Nike Air Max 90 “Duck Camo” No definitive Air Max guide would be complete without at least one atmos collaboration making an appearance. For the AM90, it’s this camo covered masterpiece, a pair which released back in 2013 alongside the just as limited “Tiger Camo” colorway. Clearly inspired by the classic “Infrared” colourway, the Japanese retailer chose to add even more curb appeal with canvas uppers complete with a khaki camo patter. Today, a pair of these will set you back close to £1,300!
Image via flickr/ timbertooth
Nike Air Max 90 “Hufquake ” Just like the Air Force 1 and Air Max 1 of the same name, this pair gets adorned with a cracked pavement print along the medial sides. The design is now synonymous with Keith Hufnagel’s skate brand, HUF. Whilst others in the collection opted for a darker theme, the Air Max 90 featured white mesh uppers and vibrant hits of blue.
Nike Air Max 90 “Mowabb” A homage to their all-terrain branch of clothing and footwear, Nike released this ACG inspired colourway back in 2008. An instant hit with collectors, this colourway was both outrageously styled and perfectly equipped for the great outdoors – so much so that the phrase “King Of The Mountain” is printed across the heel. Other unique details include a speckled midsole and snakeskin affect leather.
Image via The Sole Supplier
Off-White x Nike Air Max 90 Of all the painfully limited styles as part of Virgil Abloh’s “THE TEN” Collection, the deconstructed Air Max 90 is arguably one of the most sought-after. Resell prices are now in excess of £1,300, matching that of the Off-White x Air Jordan. It’s not hard to see the appeal, here is an unconventional yet striking transformation of the classic silhouette. Off-White’s signature details feature throughout from that customary “SHOELACES” print to the inside-out tongue and stitched sidewall Swoosh. The look gets finished off with an icy midsole underfoot.
Nike Air Max 90 “Independence Day” Before Kanye West was repping his own footwear, the controversial rapper loved nothing more than a Nike Air Max. In fact, he was solely responsible for a sharp increase in the resale price of the Air Max 90 “Independence Day”. Ye only had to step out in these and prices quickly skyrocketed.
Image via flickr/ justin tefler
Nike Air Max 90 “Silver Surfer” An underrated release at the time, the “Silver Surfer” was amongst the many Nike trainers that only became a collectors item years after their release. Named after the Marvel character who can travel through space, a metallic hue is matched by more simplistic details such as the white leather and grey overlays.
Nike Air Max 90 “Mixtape Side B” The second half of this mixtape-inspired colourway not only features a universally loved BRED colourway but features a sidewall panel featuring the iconic moon landing print. A mash-up of iconic details, this pair is made even more unique thanks to the cork-crafted inner lining, leather tongue and hand-written “track list” which features underfoot.
Staple x Nike Air Max 90 “Navigation Pack” Staple is most well known for their “Pigeon” Nike SB but one of their lesser known Air Max collaborations is just as eye-catching. What appears like a sketched doodle is actually a map of the streets of NYC. A similar theme featured to accompanying pairs in this 2004 pack which included both a Shox and Air Burst.
Nike Air Max 90 “Viotech” Seventeen years after the launch of the Nike SB Dunk “Viotech”, a near identical colourway gets stamped to the AM90. Just like that Nike SB, this pair features premium suede uppers with each panel opting for a different shade that is more vibrant than the last.
Nike Air Max 90 “Sertig” Nike’s ACG offshoot, more specifically they're all-weather running sneakers, once again provides inspiration for a colourful Air Max 90. More specifically, it’s an iconic colourway of the Nike Terra Sertig Trail which gets transplanted across the “Sertig”. Just as you’d expect, the vibrant colour scheme is matched by a chunky outsole complete with deep tread for those long walks in the great outdoors.
Image via flickr/ lutz brep
Air Max 90 “Crepe” Despite the name and unlike the accompanying Air Max 1 which released as part of the wider pack, this AM90 doesn’t feature a crepe sole. That said, a heavy use of flax material along with the understated colour scheme made these a best-seller during the 2004 release.
Nike Air Max 90 “Warhawk” The Nike “Armed Forces” Pack released in 2007 as a homage to the P-90 Warhawk fighters that dominated the skies during World War II. Like most military themed Nike releases, a khaki colourway features throughout but there’s something far more eye-catching about this pair. A full set of shark teeth features along the sidewall and toe box – just like those painted on the nose of P-90 fighter plane.
Nike Air Max 90 “Mars Landing” As a follow-up to that “Mars Landing” release, this pair is one of the more recent Air Max 90s. Once again, Nike go heavy with the space theme, this time opting for a copper-coloured graphic depicting the surface of mars. A speckled midsole sits underfoot and the iconic heel patch features in space age grey.
Nike Air Max 90 "Powerwall Limited Edition" The “3 Decades Of Cushioning” Pack was amongst Nike’s most rarist collections with only a handful of stock available for no less than 144 trainers. To celebrate 30 years of Nike Air Max sneakers, several Air Max 90s went live including the Powerwall. Snakeskin effect leather and a fluorescent orange midolse gives the look of a completely unique custom. It's the perfect homage to the history of air.
Patta x Nike Air Max 90 “Homegrown” It was only two years after first opening their doors that Dutch-based Patta had the chance to collaborate with Nike. They stuck to their roots with a colorway pulling inspiration from their store’s location in Amsterdam. A vibrant green upper is clearly a nod to the chilled out café culture whilst the bold hits of orange reference the national team colours of the Netherlands.
Off-White x Nike Air Max 90 “Black” Virgil Abloh followed the hugely successful Off-White x Nike debut in 2018 with even more limited colorways the year after. This blacked-out take on the deconstructed model wasn’t quite as limited but is still considered one of 2019’s best releases. It’s also one of the few to include a light blue coloured cable tie.
Image via Modern Notoriety
Nike Air Max 90 “Infrared” The king of all the OGs, the “Infrared” is where it all started. The first colourway to get released, this ground-breaking model for it’s time became an instant hit from day one. Tinker Hatfield’s design is now just as popular as ever despite being more than 30 years old. In fact, this could be the most iconic sneaker of all time! Be sure to browse the current and upcoming styles here !