Discover: How the Air Jordan 3 Saved Jordan Brand

As one of the most popular Jordan silhouettes to ever exist, the AJ3 is still favoured by sneakerheads worldwide and is regularly used as the blank canvas for high-heat collaborations. When the sneaker first released in 1988 it was a total game-changer in more ways than one. Packed full of never-before-seen technology and offering more futuristic looks than anything previously, the Air Jordan 3 was always set to become a sneaker of legendary status.

Join us here at The Sole Supplier as we take a deep-dive into the archives and explore the story of how the Jordan 3 rose to fame, as well as taking a look at some iconic collaborations from over the years.

Come 1988, Michael Jordan had only signed with Nike 3 years earlier, and after the huge success of the AJ1, rumour has it that the Air Jordan 2 design had left him feeling slightly unfulfilled. It didn’t help that both Peter Moore and Rob Strasser (the influential Nike employee behind the first Air Jordan designs) had left the Swoosh brand to start their very own label under the name of Van Grack. Air Jordan 3 production was hit with several delays, and with the silhouette being pushed back, Jordan himself began to grow impatient.

To make matters worse, MJ’s contract with Nike was nearing renewal, meaning that the Beaverton brand was dealing with a ticking time bomb that could cause the loss of one of its biggest talent names. Strasser and Moore were also aware of this, and were reportedly trying to seduce Jordan away from Nike, offering him the chance to build his very own brand from the ground up.

Thankfully, Nike had one last trick up its sleeve - Tinker Hatfield. Known for being one of the most prolific and celebrated sneaker designers of all time, back in 1988 Tinker was still young and hungry for success after the popularity of his debut sneakers; the Air Max 1 and the Air Trainer 1. Known for pushing technology to its limit and creating genuinely memorable silhouettes, if anyone was suitable for the Air Jordan 3 gig it was Tinker.

Quickly recognising this and enlisting his help, Hatfield joined the AJ3 project when it was already running six months behind schedule. When asked about the project during a documentary series, he stated that “it had to be another hurry up, no sleep for weeks and months, travelling back and forth to Asia with all the developers and getting a prototype in.”

The trait that really set Tinker Hatfield apart from the competition in sneaker design was the fact that he was more than willing to listen to what athletes really wanted from a shoe, much like his mentor and Nike co-founder Bill Bowerman. Hatfield reportedly spoke directly to MJ, who specifically requested a mid-cut sneaker, something with soft, supple leather and also something that looked great when on the court.

Once the initial design was completed, Tinker Hatfield and Phil Knight flew to California in order to present the design to Jordan. In typical MJ fashion, the Chicago Bulls star turned up to the meeting four hours late, as he had been out on a golfing trip with Strasser and Moore - talk about flirting with the enemy. Reports from those in attendance even state that Jordan seemed cold throughout the meeting, with many wondering if he had been swayed by the Van Grack proposal. Phil Knight allegedly handed the talking over to Hatfield, who eventually swayed Jordan by referencing his earlier design criteria and how it had been implemented into the AJ3.

The AJ3 was different to its predecessors in many ways. Although initial design sketches featured a Swoosh on either side, these were removed in favour of introducing a brand-new logo, inspired by a famous 1984 image of MJ reaching for a slam Dunk. Now known as the Jumpman, this logo is synonymous with Jordan Brand and remains present amongst a whole range of sneakers and apparel today.

Upon the launch of the OG colourways (White Cement, True Blue, Black Cement and Fire Red), the sneakers were incredibly well-received and quickly made their way onto the wish-list of any serious NBA fan. The kicks were also promoted via a series of successful TV advertisements featuring none other than Spike Lee. Produced by Wieden+Kennedy, the ads birthed memorable catch phrases such as “It’s Gotta be the Shoes” and “Money” - one of Jordan’s nicknames.

The AJ3 remains a cult-classic even today and is arguably one of the most influential sneakers of all time, with retro releases still garnering huge amounts of media attention and hype. The likes of fragment Design, A Ma Maniére and even Justin Timberlake have all paid homage to the silhouette over the years, decking the model out with limited-edition touches and premium build materials. If you ask any sneakerhead worth their salt, we’ve got no doubts they’ll remind you just how culturally important the AJ3 always was, and still is.

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