Discover: How New Balance Transformed the 2002 Into a Lifestyle Grail

In the last two years, the streetwear and sneaker industry witnessed New Balance's incredible growth in popularity. The Boston-based footwear powerhouse has flooded everyone's social media feeds with its popular silhouettes — notably the 2002 model, which now possesses a myriad of colourways that continue to win the hearts of all sneakerheads at every release. While many might assume that the 2002 is a brand-new model — the "R" added to its title — indicate its momentous comeback in 2020.

But how exactly did New Balance push the 2002 back into production and turn it into a lifestyle grail for sneaker collectors, moodboard curators, fashion influencers, and even the general audience?

When the original New Balance 2002 debuted in 2010 as part of the brand's MADE in USA line, it was a luxury running sneaker due to the expensive price tag of around $250. In addition, the initial design featured a full-length gel cushioning unit borrowed from the New Balance 1906, considered the brand's most premium running shoe then.

Andrew Nyssen, who designed the upper of the New Balance 2002, pulled inspiration from the luxury lifestyle of a CEO when he created the model. The result slightly resembled a typical dad shoe though updated with a modern greyscale palette that resonated with New Balance's range of premium grey running shoes like the iconic 990 series.

The silhouette received moderate attention back then, including Ronnie Fieg, founder of the fashion and lifestyle brand KITH, who received one of the inaugural pairs. Nyssen stated, however, that it could be the high retail price that held it back. After all, luxury cars and watches were part of the design process, intending to create a luxury running shoe reflected by performance and looks.

At the time, New Balance didn't own a flagship store. The New Balance 2002 were only available from the in-house mail order catalogues or at an outlet a year later, according to Richie Roxas, an assistant manager at the NB Philadelphia flagship store and one of the largest New Balance collections in the world.

With no demand for the model, the 2002 eventually sunk into the archives, absent for many years with no signs of returning. It wasn't until ten years later that the New Balance 2002 would return in the form of the now-famous 2002R iteration, thanks to Tetsuya Shono (New Balance Japan's product line manager), who modified a significant part of the shoe's anatomy: the sole.

According to sneaker reviewers and wear-testers, the entire gel system underneath was uncomfortable, especially to the forefoot. Shono's experience in product design at New Balance helped him decide to substitute the sole unit in favour of the one accommodating the New Balance 860v2. The result is a slimmer profile and more comfortable padding beneath the feet. The production line was also transferred from the US to Asia, bringing the original price tag of $250 down to $130.

With the help of collaborators, the New Balance 2002 returned from the archives in 2020. Footwear designer Salehe Bembury, Invincible x N.Hoolywood, and Korean streetwear essential thisisneverthat were the first recognised names in the fashion-and-footwear industry to work on the 2002R.

During this time, collaborations became more prominent in the streetwear and sneaker scene, with die-hard sneaker enthusiasts and ambitious resellers gunning for every release. Slowly but surely, New Balance dropped co-branded New Balance 2002Rs with limited supply, naturally cultivating hype.

With many eyes now on the model, New Balance surprised the masses in 2021 with a trio of deconstructed 2002Rs designed by Yue Wu. Titled the "Refined Future" collection, the premium in-line release consisted of the "Sea Salt", "Rain Cloud", and "Phantom" colourways, all of which displayed multiple oddly-shaped cut-out layers of suede material stacked on top of each other. Also famously known as the "Protection Pack", a random name given to Yue Wue's design by the first store that launched it, the peculiar aesthetic led to many more colourways up until today.

At this point, everyone wanted a piece of the New Balance pie, with many collaborations and even GR renditions hitting the resale market. Even UK-based streetwear collective The Basement secured a partnership with New Balance and dropped three iterations in "Grey", "Green", and "Brown" palettes.

What appeared to be never-ending variants of the 2002R pushed the trainers out of the streetwear scene into the lifestyle market. Many claim that it's one of the most comfortable shoes of all time due to the lightweight mesh underlays, accompanied by the brand's premium range of cushioning technologies like the N-ergy outsole and the famous ABZORB midsole and SBS heel components.

With that said, the New Balance 2002R was far more capable than just being on the streets. LA-based contemporary artist and designer Bryant Giles saw the potential of the silhouette, transforming them into a mule that fits today's popular trend of indoor-friendly, slip-on shoes, such as sliders and clogs.

The New Balance 2002R took over the streetwear-and-sneaker game by storm. Its ever-increasing popularity could potentially be why New Balance also revived its predecessor, the 1906 — now with "R" also added to its name.

Ultimately, the New Balance 2002 was just a diamond in the rough. It had exceptional qualities but definitely required some refinement. With many countless options on the market, which would you say is your favourite colourway?