Discover: How the New Balance 990 Became a Cult Classic

When it comes to creating a cult classic sneaker, you don’t get much closer than the New Balance 990. Throughout every variation, the ultimate dad shoe has gained a loyal following of fans, and whilst most brands tend to retire old versions of their silhouettes, New Balance continues to breathe new life into their earlier 990 pairs even now. Since its inception in 1982, the 990 has seen five variations, with a sixth to arrive towards the end of 2022 or early 2023, and the style has transcended its beginnings as a running shoe and become one of the most popular lifestyle models of recent years. Thanks to its clever marketing campaigns, celebrity backing and unrivaled comfort, the 990 doesn’t show any signs of slowing down soon, so here’s exactly why it’s the shoe of choice for supermodels in London, Dads in Ohio, and plenty of fashion fans in-between.

The New Balance 990 was never intended to be a shoe that flew under the radar. Since its conception, the marketing surrounding the silhouette was disruptive. The original campaign slogan read “On a scale from 1-1000, this shoe is a 990,” and poked fun at its competitors in the copy, explaining that the technology surrounding the stability, cushioning and flexibility was three years in the making. Furthermore, the original 990 was the first running shoe to cost more than $100, and unlike most running shoes at the time, it was coloured grey in order to blend in with the city, rather than stand out as a flashy silhouette.

At the time, the New Balance 990 was different and a deviation from the mainstream, much like the later versions became in the years to come, and its price tag alone indicated that you were either a serious sneakerhead or runner. But whilst the 990s pedigree lay within running, it wasn’t long before the three-figure sneaker attracted the attention of those that preferred a more luxurious and leisurely lifestyle. It’s hard to pinpoint exactly how the shoe gained its dad shoe reputation, but the fact is that it became just as at home on the patio as it did the road. In fact, during the 1980s when basketball silhouettes like the Nike Air Force 1 and Air Jordan 1 ruled supreme, New Balance sneakers had quite the reputation for being less than cool.

However, whilst it may not have always been the coolest sneaker, it still had cult appeal, and has always been steeped in cultural significance. In a 2018 interview, New Balance CEO Robert DeMartini and VP of Global Marketing Chris Davis spoke about repositioning the brand as a challenger, and its ethos of being ‘Fearlessly Independent.’ Davis actually cited the original New Balance 990 as being the perfect example of this ethos, and therefore a huge driver of the success we see New Balance having today.

With quite a substantial gap in time between the launch in ‘82 and the NB 990 we know today, it’s not surprising that the silhouette went through a few changes in the years in-between. It wasn’t until the New Balance 990v3’s launch in 2012 that we saw the sneaker moulded into a similar aesthetic to the one we’re used to. However, things really took off a few years later, with the introduction of the New Balance 990v4. The 990v4 came out in 2016, and shortly afterward, we saw dad-style dressing take on a new lease of life in a movement called ‘Normcore.’

Coined by art collective-turned-trend forecasting group K-Hole, 'Normcore' refers to ‘the desire to be blank.’ At the time, most media outlets likened the Normcore aesthetic to that seen on Seinfeld characters – blue jeans, crewneck sweaters, turtlenecks or shirts and chunky sneakers, although for Jerry Seinfeld himself vintage Nikes seemed to be the go-to. K-Hole co-founder Sean Monahan doesn’t deny that the trend originated from New York, but explained that with Normcore it was more of a ‘you know when you see it’ situation rather than a formulaic Seinfeld-style uniform – which leans into the 990’s cult appeal.

Whereas dad dressing focused on comfortable, baggy and masculine styles, Normcore followed very similar codes. What’s more, the Normcore revival was attributed to 2017. Coincidence? We think not. Fact is, 2017 was a huge year for dad-style sneakers. Not only had the v4 dropped the year prior, the Yeezy Boost 700 “Wave Runner” saw its first release in 2017, further catapulting the trend into the mainstream. When we think about what was happening in the sneaker scene at the same time, we saw hype culture at its peak, and silhouettes like the Yeezy Boost 350 V2 and the Off-White x Nike collection were the most-in demand. So, if everyone was competing to be cool, maybe being normal was cooler – hence, Normcore was born. But whilst the Normcore movement prided itself on rejecting modernity, that ‘if you know, you’ approach to what was cool still prevailed, and the New Balance 990 once again became the choice of those that were searching for something that was a little more refined.

Fast forward to 2020, and the newest iteration of the New Balance 990 was just about everywhere. The most recent 990 campaign, developed for the 990v5, played into the dad-shoe trend of 2018 and 2019. Probably one of their most well-known ads, the ‘Worn by Supermodels in London and Dads in Ohio’ tagline highlighted the versatility of the silhouette, whilst also playing into stereotypes that were known specifically for their signature aesthetic: off-duty model style and dad-dressing. Other campaign lines for the shoe included ‘Made for those with high standards,’ ‘plain perfection,’ and ‘the best-kept secret in sneakers.’ The campaign highlighted the fact that New Balance had managed to make a shoe that everybody wanted to wear, and who else could match that energy?

Although we weren’t supposed to be going outside very much in 2020, the New Balance 990v5 had firmly found its feet within another subculture. Trickling down from the ‘Supermodels in London’ look, the 990v5 was hot property amongst fashion influencers, and particularly those who had adopted more of an athleisure and wellness-based aesthetic. Once again, the anti-it shoe had ironically become cool, and was this time thrust into the mainstream, backed by a movement that also relied on comfort and stability, as well as a fuss-free aesthetic. Much like the dad-dressing and Normcore movements before, it was also obvious that the 990v5 was the perfect pair to accompany cosy clothes, only this time it was the tried-and-tested legging and sock combo, or a pair of baggy grey sweatpants. However, as sought-after as the 990 became, New Balance continued to concentrate on keeping stock levels fairly low, which helped the silhouette maintain its elusive appeal.

Whilst New Balance’s leading silhouette for 2021 looks to be the basketball-inspired New Balance 550, the 990 continues to do what it always has done – sit pretty in the background knowing its fans will always buy into it. Part of the brand’s most premium Made in USA line, which is now headed up by Aimé Leon Dore’s Teddy Santis, the 990 still captures the attention of those who demand the utmost in quality and comfort, outliving the influencer lifecycle that now seems enamoured with the sleeker 550. However, ever since Santis first linked up with New Balance, every silhouette he’s touched has turned to gold, and the same is likely to be true for his interpretation of the 990. Recognising the appeal behind each of the style's iconic iterations, Santis has revived the 990v1 and 990v2 for his initial offering, as well as continuing to riff on the 990v3, which was already enjoying a renaissance thanks to a 10th anniversary revisit in 2021, and a couple of collabs with the design studio and Normcore-influenced mood board, JJJJound. It doesn’t stop there, either – Santis recently previewed a chunky-looking v6 model of the sneaker, which is slated to drop in 2023.

Although quietly unassuming, the New Balance 990 is one of those shoes that has all the hallmarks of an iconic design. Each iteration has managed to stand the test of time, and each has retained its own loyal following of fans. Though crafted from premium materials, the shoe still manages to look good even when it’s been worn to the extent where it’s a little rough around the edges – in fact, the look only adds to its retro charm. There aren’t many silhouettes that have as much sticking power, but as far as cult classic sneakers go, the New Balance 990 is definitely one of them.

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